Maria Loi Is Back in Business
Maria Loi
JOSH HANER / THE NEW YORK TIMES
By FLORENCE FABRICANT
FEBRUARY 10, 2015
Headliner
LOI ESTIATORIO Maria Loi, the Greek celebrity chef who last summer closed her Upper West Side restaurant, Loi, has bounced back with this new project, her exuberance undiminished. “Here the food is more original, my food,” she said. “New Yorkers are much more sophisticated than I was told,” she added, referring to her advisers at Loi. Her chef de cuisine is Arno Mueller, a holdover from the Austrian restaurant Seäsonal, which occupied her new location. He’ll serve scallops with lamb bacon, red mullet with chicory, and mussels in white wine with Greek saffron. The narrow space, half the size of her last restaurant, is decorated simply, with panoramic photographs of the Gulf of Corinth brightening the walls: 132 West 58th Street, 212-713-0015, loiestiatorio.com.
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