As Europe's charms beckon summer travelers, where better to toast the season than at seaside watering holes steeped in beauty and culture? While researching his 30 guidebooks and finding "magic moments" for the tours he organizes, Europe expert Rick Steves wears down cobblestones in pursuit of just those places. He shares with USA TODAY's Monica Hortobagyi favorite spots to see the waves lap, the sun set and local culture come to life.
Rick Steves
Kodylenia's Taverna in Hydra, Greece marries the charm of Kaminia's port, the bustle of vessels on the water, and the 'beauties of a Greek isle escape,' Steves says.
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Café Bar Buža
Dubrovnik, Croatia
Slip away from the energy of Old Town to this shaded escape that clings "like a barnacle to the outside of the city walls," Steves says. Laid-back bartenders serve wine in plastic cups at this hole in the wall, which is "exactly what you'll have to go through to get to this place," he says. "Buža comes with castaway views andFrank Sinatra ambience," and is "the most scenic spot for a drink in Dubrovnik." cafebuza.com/
Ristorante Belforte
Vernazza, Cinque Terre, Italy
From the restaurant's three-table balcony, sip on a local wine and savor striking views of the vineyard-wrapped Mediterranean. The "creative cuisine" hinges on fresh catches and reinvented classics. Steves recommends "the hearty zuppa Michela (a seafood soup), fishyspaghetti Bruno, and trofie al pesto (hand-rolled noodles with pesto)." www.ristorantebelforte.it/
Kodylenia's Taverna
Hydra, Greece
Steves prefers Hydra's dinner views from this spot, which marries the charm of Kaminia's port; the bustle of water taxis, hydrofoils and old freighters ("castles of rust"); and "the beauties of a Greek isle escape." Choose front-porch seating for drinks (ouzo, anyone?) and the shaded side terrace atop the harbor for meals, which are guaranteed to be fresh, as owner Dimitris embarks each morning on his boat to secure the fishermen's best catch. www.hydra-kodylenia.gr/kodylenia.htm
Le Cosmo
Villefranche-sur-Mer, France
Like the younger sibling of an A-list celebrity, this town has the savviness that comes with exposure without the diva hang-ups of its Riviera setting. Luxury yachts in the bay give a nod to the glamorous feel of the neighborhood, but the star of this ville is the brasserie that serves "well-presented, tasty meals with good wines," Steves says (he suggests the omelette ni?oise and the red Bandol). It offers views of the harbor and town's "cultural highlight": Jean Cocteau-decorated Chapel of St. Pierre. restaurant-lecosmo.fr/
Cod and Lobster
Staithes, England
The "refreshingly unpretentious" town that drew explorer James Cook to the sea is "a salty jumble of cottages bunny-hopping down a ravine into a tiny harbor," says Steves, where there's little to do but "stroll the beach and nurse a harborside beer or ice cream." Snack on fish-and-chips and people-watch from this pub's outdoor tables, or retreat to its "cozy living room warmed by a coal fire." The old-time photos will reveal that little has changed for Staithes (pronounced "staythz") since Cook's time in the 18th century, as the town is "gloriously stubborn about not wooing tourists." codandlobster.co.uk/
Atlântico
Salema, Portugal
This welcoming beachside establishment's big personality manifests itself in festive drinks, staff hospitality and gregarious clientele. The pillar of this "simple fishing village's" beach scene, Atlântico is tucked off a well-trafficked route "between the big city of Lagos and the rugged southwest tip of Europe, Cape Sagres," Steves says. For service, walk right up from the beach, which boasts a "paved promenade and endless sun."
Ayo's
Burriana Beach, Near Nerja, Spain
Named for its owner, "a lovable ponytailed bohemian," says Steves, this eatery has been pleasing palates with its paella for 30 years. Try to stop by for lunch, when Ayo runs an all-you-can-eat paella special for $7.50. Settle into a table under the canopy for a front-row view of the cooking fires, and drink in the idyllic setting with a jug of sangria in hand.ayonerja.com/ayo.en.htm
Walaker Hotell
Solvorn, Norway
A family-owned business since 1690, this former inn and coach station is right on the Lustrafjord. Steves savors coffee and dessert "on the balcony — mesmerized by Norwegian mountains." Dinner and/or drinks are served against a gorgeous backdrop of "characteristic cliffs plunging into inky fjords," Steves says. Explore the hotel's halls and living room (a book of patriotic hymns awaits musicians on the piano), and enjoy a post-dinner stroll through the village's "cobbled lanes." walaker.com/Default.aspx?tabid=5258
Liverpool Arms
Conwy, Wales
"A salty and characteristic hangout," says Steves, this 19th-century pub is a hallmark of days when the harbor was thriving with quarrymen, mussel men and farmers hawking their goods. Today, this "particularly charming" seaside spot offers a more mellow and multigenerational vibe geared to tourism. Try the local cuisine: "chips," ice cream and beer — and engage in "that great British pastime: torturing little crabs."
Valentino Cocktail & Champagne Bar
Rovinj, Croatia
Man-made décor and Mother Nature coalesce harmoniously in this "justifiably pretentious" late-night jazz spot, where Steves says "you'll be given a small seat cushion and welcomed to find your own seaside niche," quite literally on the rocks. The romantic ambience comes alive as "classy candelabras twinkle in the twilight" and underwater lights draw fish from all over the bay. "While the drinks are extremely pricey, this place is unforgettably cool," Steves says. valentino-rovinj.com/
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